Luzern

Central Swiss on a World Tour

Reports: Singapore
Singapore
13 - 21 January 2013

We have reached our planned destination! How time flies!

Our "destination port", the huge metropolis of Singapore, at the end of the Malay Peninsula. Since the start in Istanbul 9 months ago, we have covered 12,000 kilometres and 113,000 metres of climbing in 794 hours of riding.

The border crossing from Johor Bahru confused us. Which way to Singapore? Are the "Woodlands" already in the north of the island city? The maps we have loaded can't do "routing" – the GPS can't show us the way. We follow the sign "Motosikal", and after just 100 metres we were at the Malaysian "check-out". Now just over the bridge of the "Johor-Singapore Causeway" to Singapore immigration, followed by 30 kilometres on the perfectly built highway to Marina Bay in the south.

Our bikes stay in the garage for a week. We are staying with Pat and Brö, cycling globetrotters www.somewhereonearth.org. Their home is ideally placed for reaching most of the sights quickly and easily on the well-developed transport system (MRT). As well as updating our website, we have plenty of time to visit the following attractions:

The Merlion is the emblem of the South-East Asian metropolis of Singapore. There are two of them: a 37-metre-high statue on the leisure island of Sentosa and a smaller one on the Singapore River. The name Merlion is a made-up word combining "mermaid" and "lion". A legendary creature with a lion's head and a fish's body, symbolising strength and a bond with the sea.

Sentosa Island was an important British military base before 1945; today it is a five-square-kilometre tourist pleasure island. From "VivoCity" we took the Sentosa Express, a monorail, to reach the attractions on Sentosa in just a few minutes. Lots of restaurants, bars and three beaches make for plenty of "chilling". Every year Siloso Beach hosts "ZoukOut", where around 20,000 party-goers from all over the world party through the night. We strolled back on foot along the Sentosa Boardwalk to HarbourFront, past architectural masterpieces and with a magnificent view of the Singapore River.

Underwater World opened in 1991 and is the largest walk-through tropical oceanarium in the world. It is on Sentosa Island and is mostly underground. It lets you marvel at the wonders of the sea from a fish's point of view. An underwater tunnel shows visitors more than 6,000 sea creatures from every part of the world.

Little India, Arab Street, Chinatown and Orchard Road
A "must"! Everyone talks about these districts. We expected more than what we got to see. We often wondered whether we were in the wrong district. We are convinced you can discover more attractive streets and corners than the ones suggested in the "to do and to see" brochures.

When we arrived in the Little India district, we felt as if we had been catapulted into another world. This district is packed with shops, souvenir stalls and gold dealers. It also wasn't as clean as other parts of the city.

After a walk of just 1.3 km from "Little India" we reached Arab Street. It stands out for its unique architecture. The Arabs were the first traders to settle here in Singapore. More and more immigrants of Arab Muslim origin followed. Soon this district was named after Arab Street. A big bazaar with shop after shop. For little money you can buy basketware and leather goods, brass, jewellery, perfume and textiles from all over Asia. Customs such as the call of the muezzin and veiled women are all part of life around "Arab Street".

Singapore's unique Chinatown should be enjoyed by day as well as by night. Many of the historic buildings have survived here to this day. A place where old traditions are still kept alive. Old and new meet, and so new ideas for the future are developed here. Hindu temples and mosques stand close together.

Orchard Road is a 2.2 km shopping street with all the well-known brands and high-end shops. With our friends we enjoy an excellent Korean dinner. To feast, you go to one of the gigantic "shopping malls".

The Marina Bay Sands Hotel was built in 2010 for around 4.6 billion euros. Because of its extraordinary architecture, it has become Singapore's trademark. The 3 hotel towers, each with 55 floors, are linked by a rooftop platform. At a height of 191 metres, next to a 146-metre-long "infinity pool", is the largest publicly accessible cantilevered platform in the world. The ticket for the lift can be bought at the ticket office (by the escalator) outside Tower 3. The 20 SGD is worth it. The public area of the platform gives you a view over an impressive skyline.
"Another way to do it" tip:
In the Tower 3 building, at the exit opposite the "Sweet Spot", look out for the "SkyPark" sign. At the security desk you get a free lift pass to the terrace bar, to have a drink there.

The rainforest zoo in Singapore was a highlight for us that we didn't want to miss. What makes it special is that its more than 3,000 animals live and move as if in the wild. This modern zoo houses about 300 different species in open enclosures on 28 hectares. The operators place great value on keeping the animals as naturally as possible.

Check-in Singapore:
Before 1819 the island was home to only 20 Malay fishing families and was a refuge for pirates. Today this city-state has five million inhabitants. Singapore is known as the cleanest city in the world and the smallest country in South-East Asia. Public transport is excellently developed, and because the island is so compact, you can reach any destination in no time. Singapore is also a shopping paradise!

Singapore is a fine city! This saying refers to the enormous fines ("fine" meaning a penalty or fee) imposed in Singapore. You should find out about the most important prohibitions before you arrive. A seemingly harmless offence is punished here with draconian penalties. Carelessly throwing away chewing gum or a cigarette costs the equivalent of 300 euros. You may not bring in more than 17 cigarettes; anything more becomes very expensive. Anyone caught with more than 15 grams of heroin, 28 grams of morphine or 500 grams of cannabis faces the death penalty. (Information from 2013)

Other sights:
The cable car from Sentosa to Mount Faber, with a 360° view over Singapore.
Universal Studios on Sentosa.
The Singapore Flyer, at 165 metres high, the largest Ferris wheel in the world
The Botanic Gardens
Night Safari in the rainforest zoo

Supposedly the bridge, and so the customs post, in the west of Singapore that links Tuas with Gelang Patah is closed to bicycles (you will be turned back).

Singapore: things worth knowing and interesting facts
In the east of the city-state is Singapore Changi Airport, one of the most important airports in South-East Asia. It is served by 64 international airlines. However, a large share of civil flights is transit traffic that only stops over in Singapore, especially on the Europe–Australia route. Singapore is of great importance as an international financial centre and in the trade in goods. The Port of Singapore is one of the busiest in the world and the most important container hub worldwide. This is due, among other things and especially in terms of its historical development, to its favourable location on the sea route from China and Japan to Europe. Singapore has a dense, high-frequency and relatively cheap public transport system that is being systematically expanded. The underground network, called the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit), is well developed. Singapore is an island city-state and, by area, the smallest country in South-East Asia.

Because of its British colonial past, traffic drives on the left. There are two land links with Malaysia. The Johor–Singapore Causeway in the north connects Woodlands (Singapore) with Johor Bahru (Malaysia) for road vehicles and rail. It is also the main link for Singapore's water supply. A second bridge lies in the west of Singapore. It connects Tuas (Singapore) with Gelang Patah (Malaysia). Imported motor vehicles are taxed at rates of over 200% in some cases, but cars are very important as a status symbol. A licence to buy a car is granted by the state. This licence is auctioned; at present the purchase price is around 100,000 SGD. On top of that, the vehicle itself "has" to be bought. Traffic in the city centre is also subject to high charges through an electronic road-pricing system.

While in many countries it is often hard to imagine institutions of different religions right next to each other, in Singapore this is nothing unusual because of its limited space. Hindu temples and Islamic mosques stand side by side or directly opposite each other, just like Buddhist temples and churches. There are no disputes because of the lack of space. What looks like easily achieved harmony is the result of years of effort, equal rights and a guarantee of mutual respect. For example, the canteens of all state schools follow halal rules – the halal crockery is kept separate from the rest. The pupils or students eat together, however; they just take their crockery back to different places after eating. This is only one of many approaches in Singapore to allow close interaction between people of different religions while guaranteeing everyone the freedom to practise their own. The Sri Mariamman Temple in the middle of Chinatown is another example of the unusual way people live together in Singapore. Great importance is placed on all ethnic groups living together in harmony. In part this is laid down by the state, for example in public housing (HDB – Housing Development Board) through so-called ethnic group quotas. So only a certain percentage of the flats in a block may be sold to Chinese, Malays and Indians.

Singapore is a parliamentary republic based on the Westminster system (similar to the United Kingdom). The head of state is the president, who has veto rights in some key areas and appoints the most senior judges. Since 1993 the president has, in theory, been elected directly by the people every six years. In 1993 Ong Teng Cheong was elected president. Since then the elections of 1999 and 2006 did not take place, because only one candidate – Sellapan Ramanathan – was accepted by the election commission. Only after 18 years, in 2011, was there another election, which Dr Tony Tan won.

Vandalism and graffiti can result in fines and caning. The sale of chewing gum was banned from 1992 until May 2004. Heavy fines and community service are imposed on people who carelessly throw rubbish and cigarette ends onto the street. Eating, drinking, smoking and carrying dangerous goods on public transport are subject to heavy penalties. There is a general ban on smoking in public buildings, on public transport and in restaurants, and in groups of more than five people, for example in queues.

Singapore is the only country in the world where cigarettes may not be imported duty-free. The fine for importing a carton of cigarettes is ten times the price inside Singapore, currently around 550 euros.

Lying, if it can be proven, is punished with heavy penalties similar to fraud (1,000 to 5,000 euros). In addition, the offence can also be punished with 3–8 strokes of the cane.

Sexual practices that the government considers "unnatural" are illegal. This includes any form of homosexual sex. Only in October 2007 were oral and anal sex legalised for heterosexual people aged 16 and over. Between 1990 and 2005 around 420 people were hanged, mainly for drug trafficking, possession and smuggling. Among them were some Western foreigners. Scaled up to the population of Germany, around 8,000 people would have been executed in the same period. The last execution took place in 2010. The rules on narcotics are very strict. Anyone caught with more than 15 grams of heroin, 28 grams of morphine or 500 grams of cannabis faces the death penalty.

There is no press freedom in Singapore: the media are subject to strict state censorship. The reporting rules for foreign correspondents include a ban on criticising government policy. Private ownership of satellite dishes is forbidden. Cable gives access to selected international channels such as Deutsche Welle, BBC and CNN. In the world ranking of the Press Freedom Index, Singapore was placed 135th out of 179. Pornography is banned; the depiction of sex and nudity is restricted. So Playboy and other "adult magazines", such as Cosmopolitan, are banned in Singapore.

Key figures: year 2008
The people of Singapore are among the wealthiest in the world: GDP 132 billion euros – GDP per head 49,714 euros. Industry 26%. Services 69%. Agriculture hardly exists. Unemployment only 3.4%

According to Singapore's statistics office, the total population in June 2009 was 4.8 million people. The citizens and "permanent residents" belong to different ethnic groups: 77% are Chinese, 13% Malay, 8% Indian and 2% others. According to the Department of Statistics, there are about 1.2 million foreign workers and foreigners in Singapore.

As of 2011: Singapore has a fertility rate of 1.2 children per woman. 17% of the population are under 15, and 9% are over 64. Life expectancy at birth was 79 years for men and 84 years for women.

The main religions in Singapore are: Buddhism 42% of the total population, Islam 15%, Christianity 15%, Taoism 8%, Hinduism 5%, no religion 15%. The activities of Jehovah's Witnesses and the Unification Church are banned in Singapore. (Source: Census 2000)

Biker info for the route

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Active (3 half-days)
99
kilometres
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Total climbing
419
m
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Average speed
14
km/h
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Riding time in motion
6:33
hrs
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