The change of country from Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan doesn't go as usual.

There are still 2 kilometres of unpaved, bumpy track to the "Kyzyl-Art Pass" (4,290 m). To be precise: after clearing customs we are already outside the country's border, but in the 22-kilometre-wide "corridor" between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. We don't know which territory this "no-man's-land" belongs to.

We have reached the top of the "Kyzyl-Art" pass and are looking forward to a relaxing descent and a "Snickers" from the next kiosk. The stretch to the Kyrgyz border took great concentration and strength. The headwind was still there, and it wasn't getting any warmer either. Once again, nothing came of the "easy" descent. The 12-kilometre unpaved road was peppered with countless potholes and with stretches of road that had broken away or were missing altogether. The Kyrgyz border, 800 metres lower down (3,490 m), took more than two hours to reach. Smaller streams washing over the road can still be judged when crossing by bike. In murky water it's hard to tell how deep it is or what the bottom is like. Reaching the other bank with dry feet becomes a balancing act.

What? Swiss citizens don't need a visa for Kyrgyzstan? No, the customs officer explains. The visa requirement was lifted a week ago for 45 countries worldwide. The stamp was pressed into our passports straight away, no annoying luggage check, no incomprehensible declaration form to fill in, and on we go towards Sary-Tash.

On a large pasture with a handful of yurts, we find a cosy place to camp. Nothing goes unnoticed! First the cows and goats come closer, and soon children bring bread, butter and kefir. People marvel curiously at the bikes and our futuristic-looking "yurt". We noticed the shaggy young yaks, which grunt like pigs.

Off we go: the wind is still blowing at full strength. The approaching storm front moved a little faster than expected and caught up with us in the evening, 25 kilometres after Sary-Tash. There was no time to find a "cosy" spot for the night. With a quick decision and a well-practised routine, we hope to pitch the tent in record time, stow the panniers in the vestibule and close the zip. Made it! We are in the dry while it pours down outside.

The next morning: everything around us is wet and damp, and the view soon ends in fog. There is still no improvement in the weather. An hour of "pedalling" in rain gear with a view of "infinity" sends our motivation to rock bottom. We prefer to cover the remaining 40 kilometres to Irkeshtam in a heated lorry cab. We have reached the Chinese border.

From the barrier at the Kyrgyz border to the Chinese customs area there are still 6 kilometres to go. A road completely destroyed by lorries and turned into a corrugated track rattles our nerves. Halfway along we meet two walking backpacks, carried by 2 tourists who have already been on foot for three-quarters of an hour. The passing lorries are not allowed to pick up people in the customs corridor, there's no taxi service or shuttle bus, so all that's left is to walk, as the old German song says: "wandering is the miller's joy".

Biker info for the route